I always imagined that I'd take advantage of "summers off." Until two years ago, I walked a line between "taking off" and feeling terrible for not working on the thing I should have been doing. With that task behind me, maybe now I can live the life I imagined (reality check: what a time to be alive, so, no). The utter mental exhaustion of teaching for sixteen years without a sabbatical, plus years of trying to write, finally caught up with me. I found some relaxation by the end of summer 2024, but I wanted this one to be different: July, off, out of the country.
I had completed some research and planning for a 2020 trip to Scandinavia. The 2025 plan began to take shape during the winter. I kept the first part of the original trip — Copenhagen, Oslo, and Stockholm — but added Tallinn and Helsinki. One week isn't enough for the first three cities. But I'm lucky enough to have a travel partner who can "work from home" for a week. So, after two weeks for the first three cities, I took a solo trip to Tallinn and Helsinki for the next two weeks.
I started to write this blog while on the trip, in the second city. Only by the end of the trip did I realize that my traditional trip recap style would not work for this month-long journey. So, subheadings. July, Away: A Short Story.
Copenhagen
Copenhagen is outwardly perfect. The city is quiet, everywhere, in the way that parts of Japan are also quiet. The train from the airport to the city center is about 15 minutes. Efficient, inexpensive public transit always blows my mind, particularly airport-related public transit.
The highlights of Copenhagen were Tivoli Gardens and the Louisiana Museum of Modern Art. The amusement park is the second-oldest continuously operated amusement park in the world. It is super cool and calm. Here, in particular, we realized that Denmark is very quiet, as we didn't even hear kids screaming in the park. A Google while we sat at Anarkist Bar for beers in the park revealed that Danes are quiet and intentionally so. After taking photos in the park, we took a break before venturing to the other side of the water and Reffen Food Hall. A nice version of shipping-container food stands.
The next morning, we planned to venture to the Louisiana Art Museum. It's about a 50-minute train ride along the north-east coast. After a stop for coffee at SP Coffee Shop, we walked to the train. The museum is truly special. There's a Kusama Infinity Room that doesn't require advance ticket booking. The two rotating exhibits were memorable: a multi-media artist, Kari Upson, and a photorealist charcoal painter, Robert Longo. I maintain that seeing lots of one person's artwork, all in one place, is the best way to see art. The rest of the museum was so-so. The architecture was great, but it didn't enhance the art. At some point in viewing art, you want there to be a Frank Lloyd Wright-ness to the experience; let the art fit the museum's rooms the way a building would fit into the landscape. However, the museum has the best food I've ever had at an art museum; the cafe and the view are lovely. Then, we went down to the water, where the art museum has a little dock. It seemed quite surreal to walk through an art museum, have lunch, and then go swimming. We took the train back and had a short rest before our GoBoat reservation: a two-hour e-boat ride through Copenhagen, which you navigate. We grabbed snacks and beers and made it to our reservation just before sunset. On the way home, we stopped at a random bar with a good, weird band that people seemed to be loving. It felt all sorts of culturally different.
Museum: Designmuseum Denmark, Louisiana Museum of Modern Art
Food/Drink: Seaside Toldboden, TrykBar, Reffen Street Food, Anarkist Bar
Coffee: Coffee Collective, La Cabra, Roast Coffee, SP Coffee Shop
Oslo
The next morning, we flew to Oslo, checked in, and went out for a late lunch at Asylet in Gronland: a very calm beer garden with totally normal but good food. Then we went to an unmarked speakeasy that was very overrated; Himkok. One of my cocktails was prebatched; others are made with bartender flair. They were fine, and the decor was lovely. But it was weird listening to rap in a prohibition-style cocktail bar in Oslo. Then we walked around the waterfront and Opera House area at "sunset." I use that term lightly because the sun didn't set until 10:30, but the light was already behind the buildings at 9:30. Everyone was out and about.
The next day, we went to the National Museum after having pastries at Stockfleth's and Børre Hansen for skolebrød. There was almost no one at the art museum; the same was true for most places on the trip. Apparently, no one travels to Scandinavia; honestly, there were very few tourists anywhere I went. Southern Europe or American ticket culture has made me paranoid that I'll show up to a country and not be able to visit a site because I need to prebook. I only prebooked one art thing on the entire trip, in Helsinki. After the museum, we went to the Grünerløkka neighborhood for lunch and spent a few hours at an organic wine bar, Territoriet. This neighborhood was very hipster-cool, and where I'd stay on my next visit. To finish the day, we had booked a private sauna and cold plunge; it may have been summer rather than winter, but it still felt amazing.
On our last full day in Oslo, during a "heatwave" (which meant high 70s, even low 80s), we went to the beach. We took a 10-minute ferry with many other people to the small island of Hovedøya. The busy beach was so bizarrely different from the beaches of SC and NJ. Since there isn't a regular beach culture, from what I surmised, no one has beach gear: no chairs, no tents, no portable speakers, no staking out your territory for the day. Everyone was polite and having their own nice time. What was somewhat fascinating was their use of portable bar-b-ques: a small chafing-dish-and-charcoal setup. I don't know, but making my own food on the beach isn't a priority for me. We finished the day with a nice dinner at Hos Peder. Everything was fantastic; it reminded me a bit of the food in Iceland. We had a dessert that was strawberries and fresh cream. I felt like I was in Bergman's The Seventh Seal. It was a perfect end to one of the most lovely and restful days I can remember.
The next morning, we fit in a stop at the Munch Museum before catching our flight to Stockholm. I wasn't sure the museum would be worth the time, but it turned out to be excellent. The building's architecture is super cool, and beyond the endless Munchs, the view of Oslo is great.
Museums: The National Museum, Munch Museum
Food/Drink: Ayslet, Himkok, Bønder I Byen, Hos Peder, Territoriet
Coffee: Stockfleth's, Børre Hansen, Pascal
Stockholm
We spent a week in Stockholm. The city has plenty to explore in a week, and we found a lovely, hipster neighborhood to stay in. Our Airbnb in Södermalm had a nice view of the sunset, a workspace, restaurants within walking distance, and easy metro access. I loved this city. A true delight was that my best friend and her husband were able to meet us for a day. They flew over from London, and we became the meme of friends who live in different countries but who meet up in a third country in July.
The other highlight was staying within walking distance of an independent movie theater. I saw two movies, keeping up my "see a movie on vacation" trend: Striptease and the new Superman. I had never seen Striptease, and I'll certainly never forget seeing it with Swedish subtitles. It is a fantastic cult classic. I get it: it's mesmerizing, absurd, and quite profound. Superman, though, was rather annoying.
Museum-wise, we went to Fotografiska and Moderna Museet, and we took a self-guided tour of the metro stops. The exhibits on at Fotografiska weren't terribly exciting, but Moderna Museet was awesome. There was a very cool, large exhibit on a female, indigenous textile artist: "Britta Marakatt-Labba: Where Every Stitch Breathes"
One day, we went on a self-guided tour of the metro stops, which are basically art installations: they painted the walls and rocks with a theme. We went to about ten stations, and it was a very unique and easy-to-manage experience. Having spent so many mornings commuting in NYC, the sights, sounds, and drips are ingrained in my mind; the Stockholm metro is the exact opposite.
The next day, we took a ferry to Vaxholm. The ride was pleasant and beautiful. We didn't have tons of time on the island, but we walked around and saw many more people swimming. We had a lovely lunch at Bistro Magasinet. The ferry back to Stockholm was the only transportation delay in Scandinavia. We were told that the timetables, for ferries run by private companies, are only suggestions.
On our second-to-last day in Stockholm, my best friend and her husband arrived. We met up and went for pizza at Omnipollos Hatt. Super good. We met up again for a decadent, more traditional Swedish dinner at Pelikan. All of the food was over-the-top, classic, and delicious.
This week was a nice transition to solo travel. We'd explore in the morning, and then he'd work from 3:00 to midnight. During that time, I'd continue exploring, take a break, and then we'd have dinner out. He lived two days every day, and I'm grateful to him for making it all work. The afternoon reminded me of what it's like to travel alone. Only during the rest of the trip was I reminded that traveling with someone is a privilege. I've done lots of solo travel, at home and abroad. It's easier for a woman to travel with someone else; it simply is. One day in Stockholm, I was rather obnoxiously catcalled while alone (as I was in Tallinn and Helsinki). In the year of our lord 2025, street harassment continues, but it's unlikely if you're walking with a guy. I've received unwanted attention my entire life. I do my best to blend in when I travel. I wear a scarf, cover my camera, wear sunglasses, and keep my head down. But it doesn't really matter. The afternoons in Stockholm reminded me of the extra energy required to have interactions abroad, whether it's ordering coffee or standing on a crowded subway. As a people-pleasing introvert, I wish I could speak the language, know how everything works, and be the perfect tourist. Knowing those things can't be true, it can be draining to navigate everything on your own.
All those comments aside, Stockholm was near-perfect. What a very cool city. I could easily disappear into it.
Museums: Moderna Museet, Fotografiska Stockholm
Food/Drink: Tjoget, Ramblas, Pelikan, Omnipollos Hatt
Coffee: Johan & Nyström, Stora Bageriet, Pascal, Skeppsbro Bageri, Bistro Magasinet
Tallinn
The next morning, I said goodbye to my travel partner and flew to Tallinn. I've been obsessed with visiting some part of the former Soviet Union for years. The country was occupied by the Nazis (1941-1944) and then the Soviets, until August 1991. Having taught Soviet history, I wanted to see some part of the place. Tallinn seemed like a reasonable start and has a solid reputation for tourism. I decided to spend a week there; a week forces you out of the center and beyond "the hits."
I chose an Airbnb one block outside of the walled, medieval town center. The city is relatively small and has an easy public transportation system outside the old town. I later learned that the Soviets added the quaint cobblestone to the streets in the city center, in preparation for the 1980 Summer Olympics (the sailing events were held in Tallinn). The Soviets tore up the asphalt and laid cobblestones so visitors would be impressed. The city changed and modernized quite a bit for the Olympics.
One of the things I was most excited about was an Elliott Erwitt exhibit at Fotografiska Tallinn. As with the rest of my museum visits, this one was relatively empty. I spent quite a bit of time alone with the photos. After, I had lunch at Restaurant F-Hoone in the Telliskivi area. After two weeks of eating meat, I was ready to return to eating vegetarian. The options were plentiful in both Tallinn and Helsinki.
One day, I went to the particularly fantastic Estonian Art Museum (KUMU). I had a similar experience at the Rijksmuseum in Amsterdam. There was just amazing art around every corner, most of which you couldn't see anywhere else. The Estonian and Soviet art, combined with a lucid and honest historical narrative, was excellent. And I found a new multidisciplinary artist to follow: Ragnar Kjartansson. He had two large video/sound installations that were mesmerizing.
One day, I went further out to the Botanical Gardens. The roses in the garden were in bloom in late July, and I had photo ideas. Then, I had the odd experience that one can only have in such a different place. I decided to explore the Memorial to the Victims of Communism, which opened in 2018, to remember the 75,000 people (20% of Estonia's population) killed during the years of Soviet occupation. The site was confusing. There's a Vietnam Veterans Memorial-style wall, newly built, next to crumbling concrete, Soviet monuments, and a cemetery for German soldiers. I couldn't find any signage to explain the odd juxtaposition, and I didn't have cell phone service for most of my time in Tallinn. So, I went back to my Airbnb and found an academic journal article that explained the choice the Estonians made to build the new memorial next to Soviet monuments, and to let those Soviet monuments decay, rather than remove them. In conjunction with a reclamation of the site, decay and neglect hold incredible meaning (all of it controversial). The site was fascinating. Later that night, I went to an Arvo Pärt concert in a church: a trio comprised of a soprano, oboeist, and organist. The concert was an hour, and felt magical. As a whole, the day was so out of time and space.
By my fourth day, I freaked myself out because the already unreliable cell service became worse. I didn't have service for the majority of my time in Tallinn. The city is small, so you don't need it if you can read a map and memorize bus lines. I went out to the yachting complex built for the 1980 Olympics; there was a "heatwave" throughout my trip, so the beach was packed. I walked by the renovated Olympic housing complex and the marina. That day, when cell service became even worse, I decided to do some research. Russia had moved GPS jammers closer to the Estonian border. I follow global politics rather obsessively, and so I started translating Estonian subreddits to figure out what was happening and if anyone was concerned. Apparently, no one was more concerned than usual (which is very concerned), but the GPS jammers were affecting ships in the Baltic Sea and "could" affect cell service. I research, plan, and obsessively check the news when I'm in another country. At this point in human history, you never know. In some ways, it felt like a sign to leave Tallinn.
With a day left and as part of my quest to see as many Soviet buildings as I could, I visited Linnahall, aka the V. I. Lenin Palace of Culture and Sports, a defunct multi-use complex completed in 1980 for the Olympics. I love brutalist architecture. This one is also decaying, but holds so much potential. It's in the film Tenet.
Overall, Tallinn was curious and easy. The week felt distinctly different than Scandinavia, as it should be. The past and present are present in Eastern Europe. The 1990s weren't so long ago, and seem all too near. From a historian's perspective, this city gave me all that I wanted.
Museums: Fotografiska Tallinn, Estonian Art Museum (KUMU), KGB Prison Cells, Museum of Photography, Tallinn Botanic Garden
Coffee/Food: Fika Cafe, Restaurant F-Hoone, Colab, Kiosk NO 4, Mooni Pagar Ja Kohvik, Veg Machine, La Boulangerie, Mikkeller Tallinn Old Town, The Brick Coffee Roastery
Helsinki
I felt I had to go to Helsinki since I was so close. The ferry from Tallinn is an easy two hours and a nice relief from flying. The ferry was a delight. I upgraded to the comfort lounge. There was food, a bar, and it was not crowded at all. I had a small table next to the window and watched or read the whole way.
I didn't know what to expect in Helsinki. I was worried it would be a letdown, given that the rest of the trip had been so good. And yet, Helsinki was my favorite of the five cities. I wasn't prepared for the design and beauty. It reminded me of Japan: well-kept, endlessly considered, and into the details. I was tired of museums, so I took it easy to start. I had been to many great museums and I wasn't super compelled by the options in Helsinki. I mostly walked and took the tram to various neighborhoods. I usually find a coffee shop further out and walk back (Way Bakery and Layers were unparalleled). Also, the thrifting was unexpectedly excellent and plentiful; I found a few vintage pieces (thrifting in Tallinn was awesome as well).
One night, I went to see the American comedian Taylor Tomlinson at an Alvar Aalto-designed building: Helsinki House of Culture (Kulttuuritalo). I couldn't figure out the ticket description via translation; it turns out only "obstructed view" tickets were left, in the seventh row. I bought the ticket and figured that Aalto had designed a space with sightlines in mind. Indeed, it was a half-theater-in-the-round, with fantastic acoustics and no obstructed views. Taylor was hilarious, and the crowd's reactions helped me learn about the Finnish (very polite and quiet).
While I said I was tired of museums, I did visit two museums and a variety of architectural sites: Espoo Museum of Modern art, Didrichsen Art Museum, Temppeliaukio Church, Sibelius-Monumentti, Helsinki Central Library Oodi, and Finlandia Hall.
The only item I booked in advance was a tour of Alvar Aalto's Home. I love home tours. I know the home is arranged and perfect, but I love seeing the design choices people make and the items they place in their homes. On the way back, I stopped at the Didrichsen Art Museum. It's a small museum in the former home of the collectors. The exhibition on modern art was absolutely worth seeing; their collection of modern art and sculpture was impressive.
Overall, I walked miles through a sunny Helsinki. It was perfect in every way for a tourist. I can't wait to return.
Museums/Sites: Sibelius-Monumentti, Helsinki Library, Finlandia Hall, Didrichsen Art Museum, Alvar Aalto House, EMMA - Espoo Museum of Modern Art, Temppeliaukio Church
Coffee: Levain, Layers Bakery, Way Bakery, Cafetroia Roastery Oy, Rams Roasters
Reentry
Upon return, I certainly felt reverse culture shock. I landed in Chicago only to find out that my connecting flight to Philly had been canceled; I was rebooked through Columbus, with a 6-hour layover, the next day. I "slept" at O'Hare because a hotel didn't make sense, and I lacked the energy to explore the city that evening. I hadn't slept on the flight from Helsinki (that was part of the plan; I watched Tenet, Argo, and Blade Runner 2049), so I beat jet lag by not sleeping for 48 hours. I was delirious in the Columbus airport, but had a great time. At some point in travel woes, there's nothing left to do but laugh and realize you're privileged to even be in that situation.
Beyond the rough return, I found it difficult to make any plans or commitments or leave my house. I had been quiet for the previous two weeks; there's a weird thing that happens when you don't speak for so long. When you must talk so much as a part of your job(s), in such a careful and considered way, the rest feels like a relief. I can spend more time in my head, in a calm way. With day after day to do whatever I wanted, I realized how I operate at a certain level of stress all the time. That may not be healthy. I've kept a more relaxed attitude this semester; aside from rage at the world, I've stayed relatively chill. I think.
Also related to the world, it was lovely to be in countries that function. Yes, the tax rate is high in Scandinavia. Yes, things were expensive, but no more expensive than NYC or San Francisco, with tip added. I prefer to pay those prices knowing that there's a vibrant social safety net, a living wage, and concern for the environment. The functionality of Copenhagen, Oslo, Stockholm, and Helsinki was just stunning. They are planning for climate change and investing in infrastructure. I can't say they are living in the future; they are living in the present, and this country is living in the distant past.
Overall, I realized how much I needed the break. I set the bar high by visiting a beautiful part of the world during a time of year when the weather is perfect and the sun barely sets. I shot roll after roll of film. You need light for film (more so than for digital), and so with about 18-20 hours of sunlight a day, I had plenty of opportunities. I found calm and quiet amidst the cities. I found a pace and pattern elsewhere. And hopefully I'll find it again next summer.
